Every so often I meet a white witch. A woman who is so cool, so super grounded, so confident in her channeling of knowledge that she sums up the universe in a glance. Rarotonga attracts people of this nature. The locals will tell you energy meridians run deep in the South Pacific and that the island sits right on top of a convergence. 22 religions are represented on an island 32km in circumference. Young clean shaven, name tag wearing, Laterday Saints wander looking for a lost soul to convert. And it was here on the island where I’d heard of a woman with powers. A German woman in her 50’s with kittens and a boyfriend in his 20’s. Must be a witch.
In Raro only locals can own land and only then if you happen to be a member of one of the eight original families. The island is divided into pieces like a luscious tropical cake. Eight slices each with a piece of mountain, fertile planes sweeping down to fishing rights. Like any island in the South Pacific, Raro is prone to cyclones. And while these mothers hit with a disarmingly, random sense of frequency, they hit the island between 2 and 4 o’clock - north east. People build breeze block houses with louvres so they can simply open them up and let the pressure of the storm move through. Leaving the coasts, the locals move up and take shelter in caves, where I am told you can still find the reminisce of pig ovens where they cooked people. Love a cannibal.
Sometimes rather than live with the threat of coral in you kitchen, it’s more clever to sell your lease of land to a whitey and let him get clobbered. Add to this an appreciation for ghosts and the qualities of superstitious khama and it was no surprise to find my witch living on a stretch of cyclone land, in a house where a woman had fallen from the balcony and died. Supposed at the hand of her husband’s….ghost. She’d been unfaithful, she had it coming. The story goes that the witch hung the embroidered, burial shroud on the living room wall. If it was the shroud I saw it. And it was beautiful.
I arrived. She knew I was coming. I’d made no time or appointment as I had no number and phones are scarce in any case. The Italian boy friend, charming, invited me in. A kitten jumped onto my lap. The sea breeze blew and fluttered all cotton. The air was thick and warm and pacific. This point of the island is close to a break in the reef and I think I saw a whale. I couldn’t be sure and as I squinted out to sea I became aware of someone watching my back. I turned around. The witch nodded and closed her eyes. When she opened them she looked inside me. She said, connect with your power. How could I ever doubt it? Why would I give it away? She said there was a blonde girl child with green eyes sitting on my shoulder. Yet to enter. I have two children. And time is ticking out for a third.
Then she said she could sense my love of the island, my love of freedom and my love of non judgement. She said she could sense my fear and reluctance of the western world, of games and fast pace. I began to cry. And she then said the words I must remind myself to repeat every day - you don’t have to be on the island to live like you’re on the island. You take it in your heart.
It was at this point her boyfriend kissed her, with wonderful passion and I felt like a trespasser. I thanked and left. She touched my hand briefly with a flat palm on the top of my right, near my wrist. As I drove home on my moped , helmet-free, under massive Mortonbay’s, I watched a leaf in free fall, the size of a dinner plate, it hung slow in the air and played. Then landed and kind of stuck in the balmy night, to the place where a moment before, I’d been touched by a witch.